Fish & Co.
|As warmer weather approaches (eventually), our thoughts turn to the bounty from the waters. For the best sustainable choices, consult Seafood Watch.
What's not to love? Flex Mussels, 174 E. 82nd [Lex/3rd] 212.717.7772, brings the bivalves by the boatload from Prince Edward Island, then gussies them up in every imaginable kind of broth. But, be careful with the wine list: though the Geyerhof Gruner Veltliner, Rosensteig, 2007 would go well with many of the preparations, not so much at $75 when you can find it retail for $16. Instead, have the glorious Saison Dupont Farmhouse Ale, $18.
The brand-new Red Hook Lobster Pound is promising the freshest live lobsters in town and they may have a point. So far, it's sell 'em only, though they're working on a steam 'em and eat 'em plan. Limited hours and call ahead if you want to snag some for Mother's Day, 646.326.7650. They're estimating $9.50 a pound.
A meal at Klee Brasserie, 200 9th [22nd/23rd] 212.633.8033, is always filled with quiet pleasures, thanks to the undersung talents of chef Daniel Angerer. For Mother's Day he'll be assembling a Maryland soft-shell crab BLT, with tomato, lettuce, and applewood smoked bacon.
A major new fishslinger this year is Marea, 240 CPS [Bway/7th] 212.582.5100, in what was San Domenico, opening next week-ish. It's the first seafood restaurant from Michael White (Convivio and Alto). Get a sneak peek of Marea courtesy of the WSJ. If you want to avoid the crush (and there will be one) Convivio always has superb grilled fish to tide you over.
When we want a huge selection of fish, our go-to spot is The Lobster Place in Chelsea Market.
Theodore Gordon Flyfishers
Capitol Fishing Tackle
Central Park Fishing
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Artist Tom Keough