food 08.11.06

Hot List

Buenos Aires, 513 E. 6th [A/B] 212.228.2775. A gently-priced East Village Argentinean bistro, (red Argentinean meat, red Argentinean wine) with genuine Porteño hospitality.


From the folks behind Lever House and Lure, a move to a new section of the alphabet (though it is on Lafayette): Chinatown Brasserie, 380 Laf [Great Jones] 212.533.7000, that's neither in Chinatown nor a brasserie. Still, it offers retro South Seas pleasures.


Japonais, 111 E. 18th [Park Ave. S./ Irving] 212.260.2020. We'll be happy to see the back of this mini-plague of mondomats, as certain for extinction as the Cafe Seiyokans of the 1980s. For the record, this one's an import from Chicago, though, frankly, we'd prefer Jane Byrne as mayor of NY to this.


Knife + Fork, 108 E. 4th [1st/2nd] 212.228.4885. Six courses are $45 at this ambitious newcomer with Irish chef Damien Brassel behind the range. Bottles of wine start at $24 from the no-relation Australian winery Knife + Fork.


The great chef Joël Robuchon, who earned three Michelin stars faster than any other chef in history, has made his long-awaited NY debut (now in soft-opening mode), L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon, at the Four Seasons, 212.350.6658.


Joey Campanaro's food at The Harrison was always a reliable pleasure and that's no less true at his new perch Little Owl, 90 Bedford [Grove] 212.741.4695. An instantly quintessential West Village restaurant.


Parea, 36 E. 20th [Bway/ Park Ave. S.] 212.777.8448. Cleveland!, you sneer. Cut that out. They have to eat there, too, and apparently they do pretty well, judging by the work of Cleveland star chef Michael Symon and his chef de cuisine here Jonathon Sawyer. Progressive Greek food, with a good number of meze.


Tasting Room, 264 Eliz [Houston/Prince] 212.219.9478. Crazy loud, indifferent service, and only somewhat interesting food — not what we were hoping from the new TR digs, since we've been longtime fans of the Alevrases. Given time, they're likely to right the ship.
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