food 04.29.05

Undervalued

This is a guess, but we think that if we asked you to name the kind of shoes Mario Batali wears, you could. We think you might be able to imitate the endearing way Eric Ripert says the word 'halibut.' (For the record, that would be clogs and 'alleybeut'). Other chefs may not be as readily identifiable, but their work speaks for itself.

Chef: Joey Fortunato
Restaurant: Extra Virgin, 259 W. 4th [Charles/Perry] 212.691.9359
Why: We've eaten Mr. Fortunato's food at many of the places he's cooked in the past 10 years or so, and nobody channels the Mediterranean quite like him.

Chef: Kurt Gutenbrunner
Restaurant: Wallsé, 344 W. 11th [Wash] 212.352.2300
Why: Mr. Gutenbrunner, who is also behind Cafe Sabarsky and the restaurant at the Hotel on Rivington (opening this fall), is one of those chefs who would have two Michelin stars (and perhaps will) anywhere he chose to cook. We're lucky to have him.

Chef: Stephen Lyle
Restaurant: Village, 62 W. 9th [5th/6th] 212.505.3355
Why: Mr. Lyle grew up mostly in France and his menu, which tilts Gallic, supports the restaurant's motto of 'eat well every day.' At Village, such a thing is possible.

Chef: Marc Meyer
Restaurant: Five Points, 31 Great Jones [Bowery/Lafayette] 212.253.5700
Why: Invariably and immensely satisfying American cooking. There aren't many other restaurants in the city about which we would say that. (Pictured: Five Points interior)

Chef: Michael Psilakis
Restaurant Onera, 222 W. 79th [Bway/Amst] 212.873.0200
Why: Deliciously inventive, it's not only the best Greek restaurant on the UWS (which isn't much of a feat), but in the whole city (which is).

Chef: Ilene Rosen
Restaurant: City Bakery, 3 W. 18th [5th/6th] 212.366.1414
Why: Ms. Rosen, the savories to Maury Rubin's sweets, stocks the best buffet lunch in the city, making good use of the farmer's market and generally transforming stuff that's good for you into something fabulous.
5 List: Toy Stores
Geppetto's Toy Box, 10 Christopher [Gay/Greenwich] 212.620.7511
Kidding Around, 60 W. 15th [5th/6th] 212.645.6337
Mary Arnold Toys, 1010 Lex [72nd/73rd] 212.744.8510
Penny Whistle Toys, 1283 Mad [91st] 212.369.3868 and 448 Col [81st/82nd] 212.873.9090
Toy Tokyo, 121 2nd [7th/8th] 212.673.5424


ninth street, brooklyn

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