food 10.24.16

Critics' Scorecard
Food Digest

A rave from Steve Cuozzo of the New York Post for Le Coucou, 138 Lafayette [Howard] 212.271.4252, which he calls "the city's finest, most fun-for-everyone new brasserie to open since Balthazar nearly 20 years ago…Chef Daniel Rose is "a major new talent…[who] stirringly revives the rich, rustic pleasures of great French cooking, refined only slightly through a prism of American raw materials."

The Insatiable Critic, aka Gael Greene, finds Brooklyn's Samui, 15 Vanderbilt Ave [Flushing Ave.] 917.909.1032, worth the detour. "In a few decades of checking out the city's Thai outposts, I've never come across anything like Samui's pancake studded with mussels and garlic chive, some bean sprouts piled alongside."

NY Times' Pete Wells: "Roughly half of what I've eaten at Sauvage, 905 Lorimer [Nassau] 718.486.6816, since it opened just before Memorial Day has been either forgettable or familiar. In the other half, though, this restaurant in Greenpoint, Brooklyn, seemed to be on to something exciting, a combination of European kitchen discipline and a gut instinct for meeting appetite head on."

According to Adam Platt of New York Magazine, the chef of Paowalla, 195 Spring [Sullivan] 212.235.1098, Floyd Cardoz, "…finally has a place in New York's cluttered, postmodern haute-casual restaurant landscape to call his own. In the great Danny Meyer tradition, the snug, serviceable space has something for everyone."

How is the hummus? is the key question answered by Robert Sietsema of NY Eater after a visit to Dizengoff, 75 9th Ave. [15th/16th] 646-833-7097. "Elemental might be the best description. The flavor is limited to a single strong and lingering note: cumin. The texture is fluffy; almost unbelievably so. In fact, as you sit mopping it from the inside of your black plastic container with a torn fragment of pita, it threatens to detach itself and ascend to the ceiling. Yes, it's the best hummus in town."

At The Brooklyn Kitchen on Thursday, November 3, 6:30-9pm, the fishmongers from Greenpoint Fish & Lobster, teach Fish 101.

An event you didn't know you were waiting for. Tasteless: An Illustrated History of Jello Salad, takes place on Tuesday, November 1, 8:30pm, at Morbid Anatomy Museum. Before the lecture, a Molded Salad contest. Win-win!

Autumnness: Taste ciders and apple spirits at Applepalooza, Thursday, October 27, 6-8pm, $55, at Astor Center… The fall edition of Brooklyn Crush happens Saturday, November 12, featuring a harvest of wines and artisanal foods.

Did not see this coming—Table Manners: How to Behave in the Modern World and Why Bother by Jeremiah Tower—but we're glad he got it off his chest and with great humor.

New York City

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