food 02.22.11

Hot List
Every Person in New York

The only thing we don't love about the wine bar/restaurant Casellula is the likelihood that we're going to wait for a table since they don't take reservations and the space is small. Good news for us and their many fans: the same owners have opened a new place Elsewhere, 403 W. 43rd [9th/10th] 212.315.2121. In addition to the possibilities of its Who's-on-First name, you'll get more of Casellula's arsenal (carefully chosen wines and cheese, seasonal produce, idiosyncratic approach) and the advantages of a proper kitchen, something Casellula does not have. And they take reservations. Entrees average $21.

Also in Hell's Kitchen, Ember Room, 647 9th [45th/46th] 212.245.8880, 'interpreted' Asian barbecue from Todd English and Ian Chalermkittichai. Entrees average $24.

Yesterday's goat-in-midtown from the MUG Flickr pool shouldn't have been all that surprising. After all, Gotham actually means goat town. Goat Town, 511 E. 5th [A/B] 212.687.3641, is also the name of the new, farm-to-table restaurant from Nicholas Morgenstern (formerly one of the partners in Brooklyn's General Greene) and Joe Hough, recently of Cookshop. Entrees average $21, no reservations.

Industrial chic—and it is beautiful here— meets new British cooking at Fat Radish, 17 Orchard [Hester/Canal] 212.300.4053, and that turns out to be a felicitous combination. Any place that gives the love to celery root, beets, and cabbage gets our vote. But don't worry, it's in no way militant about veggies; just good food. Entrees average $21.

Sister restaurant to Porchetta, Sara Jenkins' Porsena, 21 E. 7th [2nd/3rd] 212.228.4923, pivots from pig to pasta at this welcome newcomer. Pastas average $16.

Would we, personally, brave one more entry in the China Grill group of restaurants, this in the form of Bar Basque, 839 6th [29th/30th] 646.600.7150? A "futuristic oasis for lounging and dining" owned by Jeffrey Chodorow? Life's too short.

Much less gimmicky and much more satisfying: Kin Shop, 469 6th [11th/12th] 212.675.4295, Harold Dieterle and Alicia Nosenzo's Thai restaurant, which is Thai in name and spirit, if not to the letter. Entrees average $20.

Shea Gallante struts his considerable stuff at Ciano, 45 E. 22nd [Bway/Park Ave. S.] 212.982.8422, a farm-to-forker, but with evident classical training and seriousness-of-purpose behind the joyful Italian cooking. Pastas average $16, secondi average $32.

Another seriously talented chef, Laurent Manrique, has created a new home for himself called Millesime at the Carlton Hotel. It's a seafood brasserie in an absolutely lovely setting imbued with French spirit—their better angels, anyway. It makes for a restorative mini-vacance.

Also: Beauty and Essex, The Darby, John Dory Oyster Bar

What shop should I take a visiting foodie friend to? Answer

Travels to London's Royal Dress Collection

Jason Polan started Every Person in New York in March of 2008. He plans on working on the project until it is finished. Look for Every Person in New York on Tuesdays in MUG and daily at Jason's site.

Prospect Park (from 2009)

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