food 01.19.10

Hot List
Plus: Every Person in New York

There's a reactionary vibe just now in our city's restaurants, with the old guard in the forefront. For our part, renegades wanted.

At The Breslin, 16 W. 29th [Bway/5th] 212.679.1939, April Bloomfield and Ken Friedman (of The Spotted Pig) bring their porkyphilia to the Ace Hotel. Pork scratchings, pig's foot, and other resolution-busting offerings.

No actual Colicchio sons are used in the food prep at Colicchio & Sons, 85 10th [15th] 212.400.6699, unless you count Tom himself, who has traded in Craftsteak (and its two-word elision that's so-last-decade, for the so-19th-century construction of & Sons). Anyway, we'd much rather have Mr. Colicchio in the kitchen than lecturing about taste in a Diet Coke commercial.

Against our better judgment, we love London's Le Caprice. We say that because if you're famous, you'll be warmly greeted but if you're not, you'll be served… politely. Still, the food's pretty good, the Deco-ish look is appealing, the after-theater buzz is fun. No one asked us, though if they had, we might have chosen a locale other than the ambered Pierre for the NY version of Le Caprice, 795 5th [61st] 212.940.8195. Well, an experiment. [Image: James McDonald]

Anywhere with Roman-style fried artichokes (alla Giudia, actually) is a place we want to be, so add Danny Meyer's latest, Maialino, 2 Lex [21st] 212.777.2410, a Roman trattoria at the Gramercy Park Hotel, to the list.

Even though the rollout has been slow, Má Pêche at the Chambers hotel, 15 W. 56th [5th/6th], is David Chang's first northern exposure. For now, mezzanine lunches (the dining room below isn't finished) or takeout (ordered ahead online) are the options.

Jesse Schenker's Recette, 328 W. 12th [Greenwich St.] 212.414.3000, which roams the globe to formulate its small plate approach, consistently delivers the flavors. The good news continues through dessert: Christina Lee is the fine pastry chef.

If a scene is your scene, you can't do better right now than Andre Balazs' Standard Grill, 848 Wash [W. 13th] 212.645.4100. Smart move to hire Dan Silverman (late of Lever House) to run this stylish High Line eatery.

This Sunday January 24th (or Monday, as indicated), many NYC restaurants will be donating a portion of the proceeds to Haiti relief. Here are some of those participating.

Jason Polan started Every Person in New York in March of 2008. He plans on working on the project until it is finished. Look for Every Person in New York on Tuesdays in MUG and daily at Jason's site.

prince street (from 2008)

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