food 06.6.05

New and Notable

The city's long-running love affair with Italian food continues hot and heavy.

Bouley Bakery & Market, 130 W. Bway [Duane] 212.608.5829. Lunch at the old Bouley was one of the all-time great pleasures of the city. Different pleasures at the idiosyncratic chef's new mini-empire of casual eating, shopping, and learning.

Falai, 68 Clinton [Stanton/Rivington] 212.253.1960. Pastry-chef-turned-restaurateur Iacopo Falai offers distinctive Italian cooking (and desserts) in a contemporary setting. Entrees average $19, pastas $14.

PastaVino, 1742 2nd [90th/91st] 212.831.8167. Dear MUG, Why don't you write about more places on the UES? That's a familiar question, and our answer is: we go where the chefs go. But here's one — an Italian trattoria with very modest prices run by a Cipriani veteran.

Piola, 48 E. 12th [Bway] 212.777.7781. From Treviso, a redefined pizza parlor (groovied up) with expanded pizza offerings (not much weird stuff, just pies like the Miami Beach: tomato sauce, buffalo mozzarella, arugula, and cherry tomatoes).

Roberto Passon, 741 9th [50th] 212.582.5599. We've been fans of Mr. Passon's since his days behind the stove at Le Zie. Now he's heating up Hell's Kitchen, doing his appealing pan-Italian thing.

Secretes, 513 E. 6th [A/B] 212.228.2775. Global tapas, courtesy of chef Jordy Lavanderos.

Uva, 1486 2nd [77th] 212.472.4552, brings the number of Italian restaurants on the UES to 4,867,112. But this one has Massimo Lusardi (a scion of the Lusardi's restaurant family) at the helm.

'wichcraft, Tom Colicchio's cleverly named and thoroughly satisfying sandwich shop has staked its claim to Bryant Park in the form of four kiosks, one for coffee and pastry, one for sandwiches, one for soup and salad, and one for ice cream.

Yumcha, 29 Bedford [Downing] 212.524.6800. True, Angelo Sosa may not sound like the most promising name to deliver fresh, modern Chinese food, but then Yumcha is full of surprises.
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