food 02.21.07

New and Notable

Relocated from the East Village, Black Pearl, 37 W. 26th [Bway/6th] 212.532.9900, serves lobsters, oysters, and one of the city's best lobster rolls.

Authentic Catalan cooking at Mercat, 45 Bond [Bowery/Laf] 212.529.8600. Andrea Strong has more. Official opening is March 7th.

Keith McNally's latest, following Schiller's, Pastis, and Balthazar, is Morandi, 211 Waverly [Charles] 212.627.7575, countryside Italian in appearance, NY-right-now (for good and ill) in all other aspects. Opens officially on Sunday. NY Mag talks to McNally.

Max, 181 Duane [Staple/Greenwich] 212.966.5939, an offshoot of the Avenue B original, brings its straightforward red-sauce Italian to Tribeca.

Farm on Adderley, 1108 Cortelyou [Westminster/Stratford] Bklyn 718.287.3101. Solid American cooking with an added dash of comfort, Brooklyn-style.

Bruni weighs in with two stars for Momofuku Ssäm Bar, 207 2nd [13th] 212.254.3500. Owner David Chang, over at Eater, talks about waiting for the review and modestly predicts one star. Everyone else knew better.

Of course, any restaurant where the paint in no longer drying is considered an old-timer, so put Dressler, 149 Bway [Bedford/Driggs] Bklyn 718.384.6343, there if you wish. In any case, the food continues to delight — if it's cold out, have a bottle of the Domaine de la Brunély, a Vacqueryas, $42.

Tasca, 130 7th Ave S. [Charles/W. 10th] 212.620.6815, opened last month, serving tapas in a setting Gaudí would appreciate.

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