food 09.23.08


We had the lunch of a lifetime some years ago at Illhaeusern's Auberge de l'Ill, often called Haeberlin after the family who runs it. The lunch lasted five hours, simply because we didn't want to leave, ever. The family and staff were kindness itself, allowing us to linger long into the afternoon in the dining room and then inviting us to enjoy their impossibly beautiful Alsatian grounds, setting up a table just for us down by the river, where they continued to serve us desserts and cordials. Paul Haeberlin, its chef, died this past May and when we read the obit, we thought about the people like us who had been lucky enough to spend a few hours under the Haeberlin spell. We thought of M. Haeberlin again when our friends at Eater noted the other day that Jean-Georges Vongerichten, Jean Joho in Chicago, and Hubert Keller in San Francisco were paying tribute to their mentor by offering the Auberge's signature salmon soufflé during the month of October. (The three chefs apprenticed chez Haeberlin at the same time, which is pretty remarkable if you think about it). Auberge de l'Ill seems far away and out of reach this morning, when there are mortgage bailout hearings and the world is so out of joint. Yet it's a comfort to know it's still there.

If you like to cook, mark your calendars. From October 8th-October 13th, Broadway Panhandler, 65 E. 8th [Bway/Univ] 212.966.3434, will sell select merch at up to 75% off. On the chopping block, All Clad, le Creuset, Wusthof, Cuisinart, and KitchenAid, among others.

The fifth Joy of Sake event, the largest sakefest outside of Japan, takes place Thursday, September 25th. Tickets are $80, and there will be 327 sakes available for tasting. Plan on taking the 26th off.

Food/travel/buddy movie. What's not to like? Spain…on the road Again has just debuted on PBS with Mario Batali, Mark Bittman, Gwyneth Paltrow, and Claudia Bassols.

We told you about the opening of Obikà, the mozzarella-worshipping eatery, last October. They were expecting to opening in December, but you know how these things go. At long last, the jazzed-up kiosk debuts in the IBM building…shortly.

The 'Edible' magazine series now has a Manhattan edition. The mission: "celebrating Gotham's food culture, season by season." It's a welcome addition to the pack, but 'In the Kitchen With Isaac Mizrahi'? That territory is already well covered.

More than a dozen of Denver's excellent Great Divide brews
at Blind Tiger, tomorrow, starting at 4pm.

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