food 09.25.03


Starting today in Galway is the 49th Annual Oyster Festival,, which is basically an excuse for the Irish to eat a lot of oysters with their Guinness. (It does happen to be a delightful combo.) The Galway fest also includes an oyster shucking competition that gets entrants from all over the world.

If you're not en route to the emerald isle, you can indulge at the New York City Oyster Festival on Saturday, October 4 from noon-9pm. Same great combo of oysters and Guinness, a shucking competition at 2pm, and live music. It takes place in lower Manhattan at Hanover Square and Stone Street. Proceeds go to the Merchant's House Museum,

Beyond sitting at the Oyster Bar counter — oyster nirvana — here are some memorable oyster moments.

At WD-50, 50 Clinton [Stanton/Rivington] 212.477.2900, Wylie Dufresne performs a kind of cosmetic surgery on the bi-valves, then adds Granny Smith apple, dried olive, and pistachio to the mix.

Nearby, Crudo, 54 Clinton [Stanton/Rivington] 646.654.0116, serves oysters paired with three sauces: cilantro-chili, ginger, and aji panca chile.

Pearl Oyster Bar, 18 Cornelia [Bleecker/W. 4th] 212.691.8211, makes terrific fried oysters.

Try the oysters Rockefeller at Mary's Fish Camp, 64 Charles [W. 4th] 646.486.2185.

Opening tomorrow is Jack's Luxury Oyster Bar, 246 E. 5th [2nd/3rd] 212.673.0338, from Jack and Grace Lamb of Jewel Bako. We can't wait for this one.
We came across the website Tips on Tables,, and stayed a while. It's a collection of old reviews by Robert Dana of the New York World-Telegram and Sun of restaurants and nightclubs from the late 40s and early 50s. Look for extremely gentle takes on the Stork Club, Toots Shor's, and more, as well as photos.

We enjoy reading Adam Platt of New York magazine, but his review of 'inoteca in this week's issue has an error in it (and MUG seems to be the only place you'll find corrections of sloppy food writing). Mr. Platt writes that 'inoteca "…occupies an airy corner space on Rivington Street, which seems to be undergoing a mini culinary boom like the one that afflicted the meatpacking district a decade ago." Say what? Baby, 10 years ago it was just Florent and streetwalkers over there.

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